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When assembling a ranking of London’s top eateries, one might foresee well-known award-winning names. Yet, nestled near the top among these gastronomic titans is a unpretentious salonu found in a distant part of northern London.

An Surprise Recognition

The compact Turkish eatery, specialising in the street food of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s south coast, has been named the 4th finest restaurant in the city by a respected gastronomic guide. This recognition has left the family utterly astonished.

“I am completely shocked,” says the family member, referring to his family’s hard graft that led to their modest restaurant earning such a lofty position on a prestigious 99-strong list.

A Character of Modesty

This small shop, which used to be a basic cafe before its conversion into a popular destination, has kept much of its earlier charm. It seats just over 20 people and, beyond the dazzling live cooking display, the layout remains mostly unchanged. “It is a compact and cozy spot,” says the owner.

A Signature Creation: Tantuni

In the end, it is all about the cuisine, and this eatery certainly succeeds. The restaurant’s signature dish, tantuni, is a straightforward pleasure. The meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to maintain a succulent consistency.

It is then thrown into a massive pan with seasonings and oil, which are incorporated in slowly. As the meaty mixture heats through, freshly made lavaş—a pliable bread—is laid on top to soak in all the aromas. Finely sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are added before the tasty meat is wrapped neatly inside.

The wrap is usually enjoyed with a drop of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The outcome is a strong punch of flavour, with soft hints of sumac, punchy onions and red, paprika-infused oil bringing it all together.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is chopped and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. A prominent food critic called this dish “one of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

For dessert, the restaurant’s künefe proves a treat. It is coated in lighter syrup than usual, imparting it a deeper, more aromatic and more balanced flavour.

Surpassing the Stars

Interestingly, this unassuming spot has ranked above several illustrious three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself just behind the top of the list, following other esteemed dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave the restaurant satisfied for under £25, similar meals at high-end establishments can cost many times that amount.

The Philosophy of Heart

It is also part of several Turkish restaurants featured and is found well beyond the city’s central zones. “It is not about luxury. London is an expensive city. It is expectation that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the best service and best food but I don’t subscribe to that,” states the owner.

“I believe what is crucial is warmth, kindness and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This sentiment is shared by the list’s editor, who stated that if he was in a position of authority, he would “insist to have every chef in London train at this restaurant as a finishing school, to show them the pitfalls of overthinking, and to demonstrate what is possible if you do just one – or three – things to their absolute best”.

A Path of Hard Work

In contrast to most chefs heading kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the mastermind behind the food did not apprentice at elite establishments. “I am very pleased of our shop and our mum,” says her son.

Numerous restaurants require years to become successful, but this one first started seven years ago. Its success is due to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“Our mum would be really tired. She would source produce in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Each item is made by hand; she would handle all of this. She is a single mother and she managed a social life but her friends would visit to encourage her. She had children and a house to look after as well. Each of these responsibilities shaped her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he says.

An Achievement for the Community

This restaurant’s recognition is set to echo beyond its own premises. “In my opinion a lot of people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” notes the owner, highlighting the wider importance of this gastronomic honour.